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Port Douglas Carnivale. My wife and I usually come up every year. We stay with her mom who lives here. It’s a beautiful part of Australia, but there’s no surf, except in cyclone swells. There’s actually a really nice right point right where the fireworks are going off. The crocs are a problem though 🐊

Dark afternoon, hi octane session at Tama this week. Everyone’s in tune with such a consistent run of swell lately 🙌

This morning’s fog was thick at sea level as the offshore pushed it out through Sydney Harbour and into the sea. The cliff spills in sections along Vaucluse were super cool 😎💨

@kodakillorn Rainy day punt ☔️

Moody backgrounds in The Mixing Bowl with @grayson_hinrichs

Big swell hidey-holes, like Shark Bay at Nielsen Park, become a major attraction for Sydney’s Southside surfers when there’s nothing else available to ride. It’s usually always during a storm which is hammering the coast at the time, so it’s usually windy, and more often than not raining. The gloomy conditions though never seem to deter surf punters from paddling out. Even with the ever present Bull Shark risk that Sydney Harbour is well known for.

There’s a lot going on in this image; 4 surfers on 2 waves, while kids climb the shark nets and play in the shore break on the inside.

I used to surf here when I was young but completely give it a miss these days, preferring to shoot the action instead of being a part of it. It’s not so much the shark threat because the ‘safety in numbers’ aspect out here these days is phenomenal. For an average novelty wave, this spot has become extremely popular.

Big swell hidey-holes, like Shark Bay at Nielsen Park, become a major attraction for Sydney’s Southside surfers when there’s nothing else available to ride. It’s usually always during a storm which is hammering the coast at the time, so it’s usually windy, and more often than not raining. The gloomy conditions though never seem to deter surf punters from paddling out. Even with the ever present Bull Shark risk that Sydney Harbour is well known for.

There’s a lot going on in this image; 4 surfers on 2 waves, while kids climb the shark nets and play in the shore break on the inside.

I used to surf here when I was young but completely give it a miss these days, preferring to shoot the action instead of being a part of it. It’s not so much the shark threat because the ‘safety in numbers’ aspect out here these days is phenomenal. For an average novelty wave, this spot has become extremely popular.

Big swell hidey-holes, like Shark Bay at Nielsen Park, become a major attraction for Sydney’s Southside surfers when there’s nothing else available to ride. It’s usually always during a storm which is hammering the coast at the time, so it’s usually windy, and more often than not raining. The gloomy conditions though never seem to deter surf punters from paddling out. Even with the ever present Bull Shark risk that Sydney Harbour is well known for.

There’s a lot going on in this image; 4 surfers on 2 waves, while kids climb the shark nets and play in the shore break on the inside.

I used to surf here when I was young but completely give it a miss these days, preferring to shoot the action instead of being a part of it. It’s not so much the shark threat because the ‘safety in numbers’ aspect out here these days is phenomenal. For an average novelty wave, this spot has become extremely popular.

Big swell hidey-holes, like Shark Bay at Nielsen Park, become a major attraction for Sydney’s Southside surfers when there’s nothing else available to ride. It’s usually always during a storm which is hammering the coast at the time, so it’s usually windy, and more often than not raining. The gloomy conditions though never seem to deter surf punters from paddling out. Even with the ever present Bull Shark risk that Sydney Harbour is well known for.

There’s a lot going on in this image; 4 surfers on 2 waves, while kids climb the shark nets and play in the shore break on the inside.

I used to surf here when I was young but completely give it a miss these days, preferring to shoot the action instead of being a part of it. It’s not so much the shark threat because the ‘safety in numbers’ aspect out here these days is phenomenal. For an average novelty wave, this spot has become extremely popular.

A few clips from the last week or so. Late Autumn! ❤️🙏🙌

Richie Vas, deep within city limits. Been shooting this guy since he was a micro grommet. Now in his mid 40’s, he doesn’t seem to be slowing down much, still frothing and charging whenever the swell is up. Thanks for giving us a call the other morning, Rich. You always put on a good show.

#richievas #swellnet #surfing

@jake___s loving the east ones hugging the rocks last Monday. Shame there was a South swell in there to play a little havoc, plus the wind came early, but every day at Cape is always exciting…

Central Coast’s, Justen ‘Jughead’ Allport, assuming the Cape Solander position yesterday. After almost killing himself a decade ago at this wave, in what was arguably one of the craziest and deadly big wave contests ever held, Red Bull Cape Fear. Great to see you still charging mate, you maniac! 😂

#capesolander #jughead #bigwave #surfing

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.

SYDNEY SLABs #2 - BRONTE REEF & The CEMETERY

Bronte Reef is another semi slab wave with that typical broken up bottom of sandstone pieces, collapsed or worn down from the cliffs over the millenniums. It’s one of the main waves in the area and is often crowded. I hardly surf there anymore, most of the local goofy’s hate it. 😂 But the Cemetery, or ‘Cemo’ as it’s aptly named, doesn’t get surfed that often. This wave lies two to 300 m to the south, out around a high cliff headland and it needs a fairly big swell to break. It’s a set indicator for when you’re surfing Bront Reef. You know the waves are coming when you look out to the Cemo and see waves cap or break. The reef out there is also separated from the mainland, a deep channel separates it from the cliff. As each set wave hits the cliff face, it sends rebounding backwash back out towards any further set waves approaching. It creates learning A Frame takeoffs on the outside peak and warping square barrels on the inside ledge when it’s smaller. The outside peak is the wave that gets surfed and not many people have taken on the hollower, inside barrel as it often warps and pinches. The outside is a peak, though not many people go left as it runs in pretty close to the cliff face. I’ve seen some good lefts though. It’s a strange, unique wave, a bit like a mini Waimea but with more backwash and the locals treat it little like Waimea as well, often taking off in tandem to share the ride experience. I never saw anyone ride it until probably my late 40s. I’ve even noticed a few of the younger generation, just groms, taking it on. It’s become a right of passage almost to wax up your 8.0’s with your mates and paddle out. I don’t think I’ve ever actually seen anyone from another beach surf out there, except for maybe Clint Kimmins. I know he’s keen to have a crack at the hollow inside section but that’s really tricky and right in the backwash zone. You do see some crazy ones in there though.That’s the weird thing about all these B grade reefs. Back in the day, you never saw anyone try and surf them but today, people are venturing out to give it a go.